Building the welded wire Fence First, establish the corners where you want to build your fence and dig 2-foot deep holes for the corner posts, one in each corner. Unroll the wire fence next to the posts, and tighten it. Begin at a corner and staple or u-nail the mesh to each wooden post. For metal T posts, choose galvanized wire ties or post clips. Stretch the mesh very tight as you go along to avoid drooping. Last but not least, wire on top and bottom for extra support. Be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves when working with the sharp mesh.
Plan & Mark The Fence Location
Plan your course for the fence- keeping it within your property lines. Stake out all corners and ends of the field in clear sight. Snap a string line between these points to set the straight guideline for the entire length of the fence. The exact placement point for line posts are marked on the ground with the string (generally, these are spaced 6-9 apart, depending on the roll length and terrain). You can use spray paint or excess stakes to label where each post hole will be situated. This precaution will make your fence look professionally installed and will make it easier to determine how many materials necessary to order before you start digging.
Dig Holes for Posts
To dig the holes for the terminal posts of the welded wire fence 2 feet deep (3 feet for overlay tall fences) with corner and gate posts 24 to 30 inches deep. Dig with a clamshell digger or power auger, with holes three times the width of the post. Space line posts 6 to 10 feet apart, matching up with your string line. For soil stability, the bottom of the hole may be layered with 4 to 6 inches of gravel which will permit drainage at this level. This all prevents frost heavy in cold climates and also allows you to get the wire mesh real tight without posts tipping into the ground.
Dig A Trench
When it comes to a permanent, animal-proof fence, a trench is a must. Now dig a shallow trench the length of your fence line, about 6-12 inches deep. This way you can cover the bottom half of the wire mesh. Close the fence-up with earth to keep animals from digging under and to provide the necessary weight for a stable unit. Fill in the trench after the mesh is attached to the posts, and tamp down the wire. This “Skirt” will put a stop to even the most relentless diggers barrier far superior to simplify laying on the ground.
Mark and Cut Notches on Posts
For Solid, flush mounting notch your wood terminal posts. Once corner and gate posts are in place, mark where the top tension wire or horizontal brace will go. Cut a small, deep notch for the wire at this point with a saw or chisel. This keeps the wire from slipping down over time. Some also notch the post to insert the end of a wooden brace rod for a gate. This method produces a much sturdier, more professional attachment point than just looping the wire along your post, and your fence stays tight and right for years.
Install The Posts
Starting at the terminal end, install posts for all braces. Make sure these keys posts are plumb, and even set them in concrete for maximum stability. Let the cement harden fully. Then stretch a taut guide wire between the installed terminal posts. Line up your line posts with the string and space those out 6-10 feet apart. You have the option of installing line posts in concrete for a more durable, permanent fixture or using soil and gravel at the base for a solid foundation. Straighten all posts and make sure they are at the same and backfill, that will form a solid foundation for securing the welded wire.
Install Top & Bottom Rails
Top and Bottom rails are also unnecessary for a welded wire fence, for the mesh itself is sufficient to form the fence. But for extra strength on long runs or with big livestock put them in.
Once the posts are in place, run a continuous high tensile wire or metal pipe through the mesh squares along the top and bottom lines. Or you could add wooden boards to the inside of the posts. Attach them securely to the side of each post with proper brackets or fasteners. This bracing stops the wire from becoming slack down the track and makes the entire fence much stronger to resist pushing and learning.
Staple Mesh to Posts & Top Rail
Beginning at the very end post, unroll the welded wire against the end posts. Start securing the mesh to the wooden post with fencing staples (u-nails). Work your way down, first securing it to the top rail or wire then the bottom. As your work, pull the mesh taut to also eliminate sag. Proceed to the next post and stretch the mesh taut before stapling. For supper tight fence, use a come-along or vehicle on pacing to pull the entire line tight before finally attaching. Staple heavily at each post to make certain the wire is securely fastened along its full length.
Splice in a New Roll if Needed
Once your first roll is finished, splice in the new roll directly to it for an endless barrier. Overlap the two pieces of mesh together by minimum 1 combined horizontal row of squares. Secure the overlapping horizontal and vertical wires together with galvanized wire ties or fencing clips at close intervals – every 4 to 6 inches. Make sure the splice is snug and pull the mesh tight so it lines up with the existing fence. This is a construction that forms a solid, almost invisible joint and at the same time secures the fence against animals forcing their way through the connection.
Staple Mesh to Posts and Bottom Rail
Starting from one of your starting posts, unroll it and continue along to the bottom rail. Stretch the mesh and attach it with fencing staples to the lower wooden rail or wire. Work up the length, stapling every few inches for a more secure grip. Once the bottom is secure, work your way up the post by pulling the mesh vertically tight and stapling it straight to the wooden post. This two step process of first securing the bottom edges avoids the mesh flapping in the breeze and guarantees a tight, gap free interface at the most critical ground level.
Add the Cap Rail and Gate
Cap Rail : For a wooden post fence, attach a treated 2*4 cap rail across the top of all posts for a more finished look. This prevents the end of the post from rotting and also gives the fence a more finished look.
Gate : Build a lumber frame to fit your opening and staple welded wire mesh to it. Attach it to a strong terminal post using heavy duty T-hinges. Make it flat, with a heavy gate latch on the other side. This builds a working, secure entrance for the camp.
Conclusion
Through careful planning, stabilizing posts and careful fastening and splicing of the welded wire mesh, you can create a tough, effective fence. Add a cap rail for protection, as it will lengthen the life of the fence, and a well- installed gate will allow secure passage in and out. This allows us to install a professional grade fencing system that provides security, contains animals and defines your property line for years to come.